Article from the MISSOURI CONSERVATIONIST, January 1994: "Almost Heaven" by Ed Keyser Almost heaven - a famous songwriter once used these words to describe his feelings about the State of West Virginia. I've heard the same thing said about the Ozarks Mountains, and more particularly, the land in Shannon County, Missouri, encompassing the Jacks Fork and Current rivers. This area of the Ozarks has had an enchanting effect on residents and visitors for a long time. Two years ago the Conservation Department began to acquire over 80,000 acres of this land for future generations to use and enjoy. In the spring of 1992, The Nature Conservancy bought this land from the Kerr-McGee Corporation at a bargain price of $125 per acre. This was 30 percent below the appraised value and represents a donation of over $4 million. The Nature Conservancy immediately sold 37,543 acres in fee title to the Conservation Department. By the fall of 1993, another 37,421 acres were sold to the Conservation Department. Some 74,964 acres of former Kerr-McGee land in Shannon, Wayne and Carter counties are now under public ownership and managed for conservation purposes. As soon as the Conservation Department took title, the land became available to the public for hunting, fishing, hiking, nature study, primitive camping and wildlife viewing. Horseback riding is allowed for small groups on gravel roads and two track trails, except in designated natural areas. Nuts, berries, and mushrooms may be collected for personal use, but cutting any vegetation, including roots without special permission is prohibited. The foremost question that I hear is "What will the Conservation Department do with this land?" It may be a bit premature at this point to attempt to answer this question. Probably a fourth of the new area will be absorbedinto existing Conservation Department areas, such as state forests, for management efficiency. In November 1992 the Conservation Department conducted a public meeting in Eminence, Missouri to describe to citizens what we acquired, and to listen to their ideas about the uses of this land. Suggestions included continuing regulated harvest of timber, maintaining present public road access, improving fishing opportunity, restricting ATV traffic, permitting horseback riding and implementing conservation principles for everyone's benefit. Other suggestions include creating a large "wild area" free of all management activities, excluding clearcutting, reducing vehicular access, preserving environmental quality and increasing educational opportunities. Probably the most stark comment that we received read, "In general, manage it so that you make your grandchildren proud of your decision." The Conservation Department is applying the relatively new concept of regional planning on these lands. Regional planning involves other major landowners and ensures that all plant and animal communities will be considered in the plan. It accounts for all habitats on both public and private lands and indicates any deficiencies in habitat, public use and wood products. In short, the regional planning process is designed to give resource managers direction for individual area plans so that nothing is overlooked. The process provides the opportunity for every interested individual to get involved. Public meetings are conducted, surveys are begun and written comments are requested so that no opportunity is overlooked. In the meantime, work by the Conservation Department has been held primarily at the maintenance level. Boundary lines have been established and marked and signs have been installed along public roads for the benefit of the public. Some 120 old dumps have been cleaned up and over 20,000 acres have been intensively inventoried for natural features, forests and wildlife resources. Early historical accounts from surveyors and explorers suggest the presettlement forest in this area consisted of vast stands of large trees, predominately shortleaf pine, with an open, parklike, sometimes grassy understory. Apparently, thick stands of hardwoods grew along the drainages and stream corridors. The area reportedly contained a rich mixture of plant and animal species. However, the foremost natural feature of this territory may well exist below ground level. Over the centures water has seeped through and slowly dissolved portions of the limestone bedrock, forming vast underground caves and springs. Geologists believe that prehistoric earthquakes may have caused the collapse of many of these caves and chambers resulting in what we know today as sinkholes and sunklands. Yet to early 19th century settlers, this land must have presented a mysterious image that would seem to be almost spiritual. Names like "Devil's Den", "Deer Lick Ridge," "Painter's Spring," "Hell Hold," "Persimmon Pond" and "Mud Pond" were coined for appropriate landmarks. Near the turn of the 20th century the land took on another face as a growing nation demanded more wood for home building and general use. Western expansion of the railroads required large numbers of railroad ties since there was little wood to be found in the treeless prairies and plains to the west. The railroads in turn hauled lumber from the Ozarks to house and further the western migration of settlers. Virtually every acre of the vast Ozark forest was cut over in a time span of only 20 to 40 years. In fact, you can still find traces of the old railroad tramways that were constructed through the Ozarks to transport the logs to the sawmills. When the commercial timber was gone, the sawmills closed. Landowners formerly employed by the mills were forced to make a living on the denuded hills. Cattle and hogs ranged over the entire area, resulting in the degradation of the vegetation, soil and wildlife resources. To make matters worse, frequent forest fires also damaged these lands. The abused land was considered worthless and became tax delinquent. In the 1930's one third of the Ozarks was reported to have been offered at tax sales, but few buyers were found. One of the more positive influences during this area was the T.J. Moss Tie Company of St. Louis, a business that bought land throughout the region and cut the forest for railroad ties and Lumber. However, they maintained their ownership and began good forest management after logging was completed, including tree planting and fire protection. The Kerr-McGee Corporation bought out the Moss Tie land holdings in 1963 and continued the trend of good stewardship. Although the present forest includes more hardwoods than the presettlement pine forest, it stands as a testament to the renewability of the forest resources in this important area. Why was the acquisition of this property by the Conservation Department important? People interested in hunting, backpacking, hiking, horseback riding or just "getting away" in an isolated environment will like these lands. This is one of the few truly remote places in the state for people to enjoy more primitive outdoor activities. All the residents of Missouri receive indirect benefits because this acquisition ensures good land stewardship on a large portion of the area that controls water quality in two of the nation's finest streams - the Jacks Fork and Current rivers. This forest, along with previous land holdings in the area also helps ensure a stable resource base for the local economy. These forests are important for recreation and tourism as well as providing wood fiber to industries in and around Shannon, Wayne and Reynolds counties. yes, I've heard friends and acquaintances who visited this area refer to the place as "heavenly". Land around the Conservation Department's new aquisition has been called home for generations of Shannon Countians. With the purchase of the former Kerr-McGee lands, now residents of the state of Missouri can call part of this heaven home. ----------------- Author Ed Keyser is an assistant state forester with the Missouri Conservation Department. He oversees the management of almost 400,000 acres of Conservation Department lands.